A visit to El Cosmico, Marfa, Texas
Posted in Tourism, Travel on March 18th, 2010I just returned from a three-day trip to Marfa, Texas, and El Cosmico.
It was both muy frio and muy Cosmico. My youngest son, Jesse, home from NYC on spring break, was my tentmate and despite the nighttime lows of 36 degrees, our stay at El Cosmico was delightful. We dodged the 18-degree temps Saturday night and left before the sleet, snow and 12-degree temps blew in Tuesday.
Far West Texas weather is far from predictable but we were prepared with two goose down sleeping bags each, so we were plenty toasty. I’ve braved a few 10-degree nights at 9,000 feet on the eastern slope of Wyoming’s Wind River range and I have no desire to re-live that experience.
Our first night was in a spacious yurt on two comfy twin-size futons. It was my first yurt experience. Yurts, I learned, tend to rattle in the wind, and the 30-plus mph gale that blew through Marfa Sunday night kept us awake as the fabric slammed against the framework. It’s March, and in March in this part of Texas the winds howl. My friend, Bob Dillard, publisher of the Jeff Davis County Mountain Dispatch, told me that winds in nearby Fort Davis were clocked at 96 mph last week.
So, under less windy conditions, I’m sure the yurt works. Our excellent hostess, El Cosmico‘s manager, Sarah, offered us one of the wall tents on our second night and it was as quiet as any room at El Paisano. We shared a full-size futon and slept like babies.
All the trailers were taken, so we’ll book ahead next time and try out one of the vintage mobile homes. I’ve got my eye on the 1956 Imperial Mansion.
Bathroom and kitchen facilities are outdoor and communal for all guests but each trailer comes with a stove and its own bath facilities, either indoor or outdoor. All trailers have indoor toilets. Sub-freezing temperatures will typically freeze the water in the communal bathrooms, so bathing doesn’t happen until the sun warms the pipes around 9 a.m.
There’s free wireless at El Cosmico‘s office as well as couches, a table and a turntable where visitors can chill and spin tunes from the vintage vinyl collection. I spent a couple hours there editing images and answering email.
There is ample space for campers who bring their own tents and there were at least a half-dozen present on our first night. All guests must park their cars at the office but El Cosmico provides handy wagons for guests to transport their luggage/gear. I’m a backpacker and I prefer getting as far from my car as possible.
El Cosmico is perched on the outer edge of Marfa on an 18-acre plot of ground on Highway 67 south of the Presidio County courthouse. It’s a pleasant open space and encourages a communal experience. If you’re not into sharing space, El Cosmico might not be your cup of tea. Still, I found it far less cramped than any of the Texas state parks or commercial campsites I’ve stayed in. Marfa and El Cosmico are very bicycle-friendly and it’s maybe a three-minute ride from the campground to the courthouse in the center of town.
As we departed Monday morning, I asked Sarah about accommodations during the upcoming Marfa Film Festival, May 5-9, and she told me all trailers, tents and yurts are booked. Tent camping spaces are still available but I’d call just to be certain. I can’t wait to get back to El Cosmico when the weather is more hospitable. I’m sure that to get the maximum benefit of what El Cosmico has to offer, one needs to be able to leave the sleeping bag without risking frostbite.
But even in this week’s extreme cold, we found it to be a most excellent adventure.





















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